Tenuta San Francesco Winery: A Vineyard Touching the Clouds

January 14, 2017 Janet Calia

As the Tuscan Travelista, my passion and love for Italia takes me on the most exciting adventures. Last June, I had the opportunity to spend a heavenly afternoon at @tenutasanfrancesco winery located in Tramonti on the breathtaking Amalfi Coast! I was part of a women's small group tour, where we had spent an amazing week visiting the Amalfi Coast! While we were staying in Positano, our driver took us along the beautiful, mountainous coastline and up to this heavenly winery located high up in the mountains! Upon arriving, I could feel the magic in the air from the estate.

Tenuta San Francesco is a family-run winery owned by four families whose mission is to encourage local agriculture and preservation. One of the symbols of the farm is a butterfly, which symbolizes the great attention paid to the preservation and protection of the environment. When we arrived, we were greeted by the charming Rafaella, one of the daughters of the family-run business.

Rafaella, along with her sweet pup Emma, gave us a tour of the winery and the gorgeous vineyard! She explained to us how her family had owned this farmland and decided to revive the viticultural tradition of the land, when they established Tenuta Winery in 2004. She pointed out one of the four impressive centennial vines, a vine that is close to 500 years old with a massive diameter of about 15 inches!! Be sure to snap a picture for evidence, I know I did!

After our small intimate tour, it was now time to taste the wine of the Amalfi Coast! *my favorite part* We tasted four wines in all! Tramonti Rosato: a fruity rose, Per Eva: a light, white blend, 4Spina: a rare, red bold blend riserva, and E’Iss: a Tintor di Tramonti red blend of rare grapes, and translates to “This Is It” in Italian! The wines get their flavor from the local volcanic soil and the Anglianico grape, which gives them a delicious bold taste! I can truly say these wines we tasted were unique to my palette. My tastebuds loved every second of this wine tasting!

We also paired these wines with lunch prepared fresh by Rafaella’s mother, consisting of the most amazing homemade pecorino romano cheese known to civilization! We indulged in fresh melt-in-your-mouth burrata cheese, tomato caprese salad, homemade salami, beans, and fresh baked italian bread! In addition, we also tasted the families’ olive oil and grappa!! Delizioso!!

Fresh, home-made Tomato Caprese Salad, and two of the most delicious cheeses!

I enjoyed all the wine of this region so much that I ordered a case of wine to be shipped back home!! The visit to this winery was a memorable, authentic, Italian experience! We felt like family with our gracious hosts at all times! I would highly recommend a visit to @tenutasanfrancesco Winery to anyone venturing to the Amalfi Coast. It will be sure to deliver a winery experience, unlike any other, where you feel like family. My experience of this vineyard, high in the clouds, was one I will never forget! A magical day in Bella Italia.

Ristorante Rafele- Farm to Table Rustic Italian Dining in NYC

December 3, 2015 Janet Calia

Looking for an Authentic Italian Restaurant in NYC? Well look no further; Ristorante Rafele brings Southern Tuscan Home Cooking of Naples to Southern New York City!

Last week, I had the pleasure and the opportunity to meet Chef Raffaele Ronca, one of NYC Best Chefs! He was warm and friendly and very charismatic! He greeted myself as well as his other dinner guests personally, and took pride knowing that everyone was enjoying their meal! Rest assured there are no airs with this Master, and his true goal is to provide a dining experience using fresh, high quality ingredients along with exceptional service that make this West Village eatery, located at 29 7th Avenue South a Napolitano NYC Hot Spot!

Raffaele Ronca was born and raised in Naples, Italy. He comes from a family of fisherman and butchers, and his uncle owned a restaurant business in Naples. A young Raffaele knew that food and cooking was in his blood, having been exposed to food preparation at an early age!

He immigrated to America at the young age of 21 and worked at New York’s most acclaimed Italian restaurants, including Executive Chef at Palma, Chef du Cuisine at Bellavitae, and Manager of Food and Wine at Cafe Torino. A few years ago, he and a dear old friend from Naples, Romeo Palmisano, discussed bringing their love of authentic Napolitano cuisine to their own venue. Working together and perfecting every detail, they created Ristorante Rafele!! Here they believe in the motto “L'Appetito Viene Mangiando” which means “Food that makes you want more”!

The Chef brings produce from upstate’s Blooming Hill Farm and fresh caught Long Island fish along with Ottomanelli grass-fed meats to his menu. As you enter the ristorante, it has a warm, rustic Tuscan feel to it and it has seating for about 70 with an intimate chef’s counter made of Venetian Marble, which overlooks the open kitchen! While you dine at the counter, watch him prepare his magic in his massive Acunto brick oven imported from Naples, and savor the aroma that emanates a smoky scent in the dining room and adds crazy delicious flavors to his dishes! I had the honor to be welcomed into his kitchen and assist him in making his much acclaimed Margherita personal pizza pie! I saw first-hand that all his recipes are "Made with Love!!!”

Seating is also available outside in the warmer months for al fresco dining much like that in Naples. The restaurant offers private cooking classes on Tuesdays, right in Chef Ronca’s kitchen and Sunday Brunch. Private Parties can be held in his downstairs Party Room that seats about 20, overlooking his prized glass encased wine cellar. As we toured the cellar it held an array of red, rose, and white wine, and imported beers such as Peroni and Moretti Birra (to name a few) from Italy. His private room is decorated rustically with a special personal touch of individual canned jars of tomato sauce prepared by Chef Ronca himself, as he proudly pointed them out to me during my personal tour. He also excitedly stated that he would be appearing on The Food Network's series Chopped scheduled to air in the coming months. He also has appeared on The Food Network’s Sandra Lee’s Semi Homemade. He is a James Beard Foundation featured Chef of Culinary and Excellence!

At dinner, we enjoyed a bottle of red Italian wine, The Valpolicella Ripasso Speri (Veneto 2013) and Italian Peroni and Moretti Birra. That evening our party started off with the following appertivos: The Polpettine, which is pan-seared veal and beef meatballs in a light tomato sauce, The Polpo Alla Griglia, which is shelled mussels, shrimp, and lemon butter in a white wine sauce and the Melazane, which is layers of eggplant with Parmiagiano Reggiano, fresh basil, buffalo mozzarella, and a roasted tomato puree sauce. For entrees we enjoyed The Branzino Alla Griglia, which was grilled with Italian herbs in a white wine sauce, and was accompanied by roasted potatoes with rosemary and himalayan salt. Another pasta favorite was The Paccheri All' Amatriciana; it was a paccheri pasta with smoked guanciale in tomato sauce topped with shaved Pecorino Romano!! The specials for that evening was a Spinach Gnocchi (that literally melted in your mouth) and the Pan-seared Halibut, which was served with artichokes in a white wine sauce, and was to die for!! As if that wasn't enough culinary delight, we finished off with a Chocolate Mousse and his prized dessert, his Italian Ricotta Cheesecake!

Ronca’s Cheesecake was voted Food & Wine Best Cheesecake in America! His cheesecake uses his grandmother’s recipe of buffalo milk ricotta cheese, fresh vanilla beans, and a hint of orange blossom syrup! The said-secret to this epic dessert is that it is whipped for a very long time, which gives it that light texture! Mamma Mia, I’ve traveled Italy from North to South and this has been the lightest yet richest and creamiest I have ever eaten!

Everything sounds amazingly delicious, doesn’t it?

So what are you waiting for! Head down to Ristorante Rafele and experience the Passion of La Dolce Vita and tell the Chef, The Tuscan Travelista sent you!! I promise you and I will be returning to experience “L' Appetito Viene Mangiando!!!" Remember.. everything is Farm to Table and Made With Love!!!

Head Over Heels for Furore!

July 14, 2015 Janet Calia

Furore is a little known, small hamlet between Positano and Amalfi on the Amalfi Coast. It gets its name from the sound of the raging sea pounding against the valley below! It has a population of about 800 people. It is a vertical stretch of hillside above the Mediterranean Sea. It is famous for its picturesque and dramatic fjord harbor and International Diving World Series, which takes place there in the summer. The fjord is cut from the narrow rock at the mouth of a steep valley, which has a small beach and fishing village below. A cluster of quaint fishermen's houses known as bongo appear to be carved into the cliffside!

You can view the fjord from the captivating arched bridge above on the Amalfi Coast Highway. You can also access the beach cove by the Amalfi Coast Highway. Park your car on the side of the road, climb down the stairs and enjoy a relaxed beach day at one of this region's unique location. The fjord's beach cove has very calm, bath- like, azure green sparkling waters. Do bring a pair of shoes though because the sand is a bit rocky and pebbly.

Dine at Al Monazeno, a quaint and charming beachside trattoria! Enjoy their fresh seafood along with their famous antipasti and pasta along with a chilled bottle of white or red wine! As you dine, sit back and relax from their beach lounge and take in the beautiful fjord view!

If you are lucky to visit in July, on the second Sunday, the International sports event named the "Marmeeting" takes place. It is also known as the 2015 Cliff Diving World Series!! This year it took place on July 12, 2015. The dives are made from a small platform on the Fjord of Furore bridge, at a height of 28 meters, about 92 feet high! The very courageous divers have only 3 seconds to execute a perfect dive entry into the Mediterranean water at a speed of about 100km!

You can witness the event from the beach of Furore, from a chartered boat on the sea, or from the scenic Amalfi coast highway above! This year Gary Hunt of Great Britian won the gold medal of the 29th Mar Meeting Championship with Chejo Guzman of Mexico in 2nd place with silver, and Jonathan Parades of Mexico taking the bronze!

In my opinion, the best time to visit Furore is during the summer months to take advantage of bathing in the calm warm waters of the Mediterranean Sea! Try to plan your summer visit to coincide with the International High Diving Competition! It is one not to be missed and sure to turn your head over heels for Furore! Furore is indeed the passion of la dolce vita!!!

Photo credit - www.thetuscantravelista.com

photo credit - pinterest.com @ninoaversa 2013

photo credit - www.marmeeting.com, @ninoaversa 2013

The Feast of Montepertuso

July 10, 2015 Janet Calia

Montepertuso is a small village just above Positano in the Monti Lattari. Its name comes from this unusual hole in the rock. Every year on July 2nd, they celebrate with a feast paying homage to the Virgin Mary. On this day the towns people take the Virgin Mary out of their only Church, The Church of Madonna delle Grazie and carry her through the town. It is an honor to lead the procession and the rest of the village follow behind singing her praise! Afterwards, there is a huge party with food, games, cannon fire and fireworks! The procession starts late afternoon and the celebration continues after midnight! For it is strongly believed that it was the Virgin Mary who chased Satan from the Mountains in which they live!

One day The Virgin Mary was climbing the mountain to get water from the other side. Satan appeared and told her he could lead the way for her if she believed in him. She refused and told him her God was more powerful and almighty. With that Our God created a huge perfectly round hole in the mountains for Mary to use! If you climb to the Mountain top you can see a shape of a snake that is engraved in the rocks for it was the very hand of the Virgin Mary that threw Satan against the rock, as her final action to free the village from his grip!

After the procession and before the fireworks, enjoy a delicious romantic dinner at two of my favorite restaurants in Montepertuso, Il Ritrovo and La Tagliata. Chef Salvatore of Il Ritrovo makes a homemade ravioli, tomato and basil dish that is unforgettable! His complimentary Proseco along with his lemon tiramisu is a perfect end! La Tagliata uses organically grown vegetables grown on their land and free range meat reared from the surrounding area! Chef Vincenzo serves traditional dishes family style. My favorite was the meat platter consisting of beef, lamb, rabbit, pork and venison! Both restaurants have patios to dine and offer breathtaking panoramic views of Positano below!! Day or night the view is one you will treasure forever!

Montepertuso is a magical hamlet situated high above romantic Positano. If you are visiting in July do try and plan accordingly to view the Virgin Mary Processional, it was a memory I will forever hold dear to my heart and it truly epitomized the passion of la dolce vita!!!

San Gimignano - An Old World Tuscan Gem!

May 21, 2015 Janet Calia

A visit to Tuscany would not be complete, without a day trip to the most famous walled medieval village called San Gimignano! It is famous for its towers, where you can view the beautiful hills of The Elsa Valley of Tuscany! It also has the Collegiata Church di Santa Maria Assunta (the Duomo of San Gimignano), museums, charming shops, art galleries, restaurants and the world’s most famous gelato!!

Ok, let’s get to the history first! It existed in the Etruscan and Roman times and then developed during the Middle Ages. It’s prime location served as a trade and pilgrimage route between Rome and the North. Their infamous stone towers rose circa 1150 as a defense tool and as an internal competition within its walls as to which family possessed the higher tower. The higher the tower the more power and wealth a family obtained, sort of like “Keeping up With the Jones Medievil Style!!” However, plague, wars, catastrophes and internal struggles weakened the village and over time, the initial 70 towers decreased to 14 at present. A watching guard can be seen perched atop one of the towers as a deterrent protecting its village from invaders! Today, you can climb to the top of the Bell Tower and take in a bird’s-eye view of the infamous Tuscan landscape Countryside!

When my group and I arrived in San Gimignano, it was so inviting to step foot into this magnificent walled wonder!! As you enter under the arched walls, navy blue banners and flags drape overhead and sway in the warm Tuscan breeze. A naked, rusted metal soldier can be seen standing guard on the cobbled stone streets as you enter! For a minute I took a double take!! He seemed so real, I thought he was one of those gilded men that pretend to be statues at our amusement parks. I have to admit, I still wasn't sure he was fake as I walked past and thought he would move at any moment!!

As we strolled the winding streets and hills, it amazed me at what life may have been back in the 1300’s. I didn't know what to take in first: the beautiful stoned buildings, the gorgeous Tuscan Landscape, views of vineyards and olive groves, or the most amazing shops beckoning your welcome! I had to stop and shop in the ceramic shops with their colorful hand painted pottery and masterpieces. I purchased a lovely plate depicting the Tuscan landscape so that when I looked at it I would always remember this magical day! The wine shops were so inviting as well. They displayed their famous Chianti Classicos and their Vernaccia, a white wine of medieval heritage that was consumed by kings and popes! And finally the pork stores adorned with wild boar heads and bountiful of salamis, cheeses, and truffles!!

OMG, Pinch me!!! We were in Tuscany and it was Amazing!! No Dorothy, we are not in Kansas anymore!! San Gimignano has two main squares, in the first one being, The Piazza della Cisterna. This was my favorite one!! In the square you will find a beautiful stone well in the center calling everyone to peer down and holler! In the Middle Ages this was the meeting point for the villagers where all the towns activities took place! This is now a wishing well and indeed a photo-op for most of the tourists! I took a beautiful one there with my Little Travelista. In the square we ate lunch al fresco (outside) at a Bar La Cisterna. We enjoyed their Tuscan vegetable pizza with a very thin, crispy crust. We chatted with people from all over the world and dined alongside a lovely family from Australia.

THEN we saved the BEST for LAST... we finally had the honor to visit The World's Champion Gelato Dondoli Gelateria! It won World Champion Awards in 2006-2007 and 2008-2009. The owner, Sergio, greets his guests while you wait in line for your delectable dessert! The big difference between gelato and ice cream is that it is made mostly with eggs and made daily, not like the ice cream we have at our local parlors that are made at least a year earlier!! The FRESHNESS is what you will taste immediately as you have your first spoonful! It has so many popular favorites, chocolate, pistachio, straciattella and mango to name a few! I tried the mango and it was DELICIOUS (this coming from a chocolate loving Travelista is BIG!!)

The next large square is called The Piazza del Duomo, where you can visit The Collegiata Church of di Santa Maria Assunta. Climb the stairs and enter this beautiful duomo with its painted walls and blue frescos! You are not allowed to take photo’s inside, which is strictly enforced, but you can only imagine how beautiful it was!!

I had to blog about San Gimignano as my first because it entered my heart that warm June day and it will always remain vivid in my heart and soul! San Gimignano is a wonderful place to eat al fresco, shop and relax and take in the magnificent views! Go early in the morning to avoid the crowds especially in the summer! Make this a must do while in Tuscany, and experience THE PASSION OF LA DOLCE VITA !!

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Looking for an Authentic Italian Restaurant in NYC? Well look no further; Ristorante Rafele brings Southern Tuscan Home Cooking of Naples to Southern New York City!